In a slight diversion from the norm here on Holme & Away, I’m discussing two wonderful Cumbrian locations in one: Brantwood and the Ruskin Museum. Both can be found in (or near) Coniston and both have connections with one of Cumbria’s well-known names, John Ruskin. Brantwood was Ruskin’s home for the 28 years leading up to his death in 1900, and the Ruskin Museum, well… it’s obvious.
Who was John Ruskin?
‘Ruskin’ is one of those names that I had heard before but never really knew what he had done. One of the buildings at my university (Lancaster for those that want to know!) is dedicated to him and although I never went inside it during my three years there, I now understand it holds a fantastic collection of Ruskin’s works and promotes his ideas in the modern age. The exhibits and displays at both Brantwood and the Ruskin Museum have gone a long way in educating me on this great Victorian thinker and critic.
He was a bit of a ‘jack of all trades’ it seems, and in doing a bit of extra research I found him described in the following ways on various sites: critic, social theorist, writer, artist, polymath, aesthete, watercolourist, philanthropist, draughtsman, patron, and social revolutionary. He’s one of those people I could see walking through an immaculate garden reading a deeply academic book, pausing to look at a bird that had landed on the nearest tree branch before continuing on his rounds. On a rainy day, he might instead sit behind a chunky wooden desk writing down his thoughts on the latest act of Parliament or penning a letter to a friend. But now I’m getting lost in my own head… Back to it.
When he was 24 years old, Ruskin began writing one his most well-known works, ‘Modern Painters’ in which he argued that painters emerging in the late 1700s to early 1800s, especially JMW Turner, were more proficient in painting landscapes than some of the ‘old masters’. This latter group of artists includes some names we recognise today as being incredibly talented, such as Botticelli, da Vinci, Michelangelo and Raphael. Hop over to me, a fellow 24-year-old, sitting behind my laptop, not writing the first of my five-volume critical masterpiece, and feeling like I should be doing more with my time.
Ruskin in Cumbria
A simple search of ‘Ruskin Cumbria’ will bring up Brantwood as its number one result. The house as we see it today is spectacular and ideally located for views over Coniston Water, especially on a sunny day. It was originally built as a small cottage in 1795, 77 years before John Ruskin bought it but it has grown a new life since then. After taking possession of Brantwood, Ruskin added the turret in what would become his bedroom and what a bolt-on it is. I was lucky enough to be visiting on a sunny day so the scenery was incredible, but as Ruskin said:
“There is really no such thing as bad weather, only different kinds of good weather”
When at Brantwood, be sure to take the time out to really explore the gardens. They were overhauled by Ruskin when he acquired the property and gave land for him to conduct a variety of experiments. My personal highlight is the Ice House which had been built into a rock cave and locked behind a wrought iron gate. Bring proper footwear though – some part of the garden can be steep and slippy!
Ruskin’s Legacy
Cumbria is home to some particularly unique products, including Grasmere Gingerbread or Kendal Mint Cake to name a couple. Another of these such products is a type of lace which originated in the Coniston area and supported by none other than John Ruskin. It is now known as, surprise surprise, Ruskin lace. I’m no expert in handicrafts or how to make this lace but judging by the many examples on display at the Ruskin Museum, it looks like a lot of work!
Aside from being a supporter of cottage industries and ‘rural arts’, Ruskin has left behind many works which still have relevance today. His books and essays impacted minds included that of Leo Tolstoy who described him as:
“one of the most remarkable men not only of England and of our generation, but of all countries and times”
In his collection of four letters, brought together in his book Unto This Last, Ruskin outed the concept of division of labour as dehumanising and pushed for social justice. This work was picked up in later years by Gandhi and the founders of the Labour Party. His left-wing ideas inspired modern-day politicians such as Nye Bevan who would go on to implement a National Health Service. It was in these letters that Ruskin wrote this simple message:
“There is no wealth but life”
Finish your visit off with a trip on the Steam Yacht Gondola, operated by the National Trust. It’s a Victorian steam-powered boat which is a bit of a Coniston must do!
To find out more about Brantwood and the Ruskin Museum, head on over to their websites by clicking their names, and for more Holme & Away there’s Facebook, Twitter and Instagram.